Saturday, December 10, 2016

Sprue Mold

A SPRUE MOLD...is an enclosed mold that uses a series of channels that allows the resin to flow inside it, with vents that allow the air to escape.

Sunday, December 4, 2016

WORK...UGH

While I love the Holiday Season, I hate December.  Companies clear out their shops to get things off the books for the year.  They drop them off at other companies so they have everything ready to go come January.  Where do they drop them off?

AT THE MACHINE SHOP.  So December is usually quite busy for me.  Hence why posting is down. 

Next up is a summarization of Sprue /molds and then we will have some fun making a few things.

Monday, November 28, 2016

RE ORGANIZING

With the recent magno sale, Im left with a disaster area that used to be my collection room.  Collection rooms have a life of their own.  You put a figure in one place and weeks, maybe months later, you find the 'perfect' spot for it someplace else in the room. 

So I am back at ground zero re arranging the room.  As I slowly get the room back together, items previously stored are now being pulled out of the closet.  And as the room slowly comes around, a section of my room is being dedicated to my customs.  When I look at them I see figures that need to be built and now have the room for.

With a focus on molds, I now have a nice plethora of molds with which to make stuff in my spare time and every few months I'll pop a bunch up for sale.  I'll update every so often to show the figure(s) produced.

Sunday, November 27, 2016

INTERLOCKING 4 PIECE MOLD

When I first got into casting, I spent the 1st few months experimenting before I did Roboid.  One of the experiments was to make a mold that would allow a double pour.

As stated many times, unless absolutely necessary, I hate painting.  So if I can, I will double pour.  Double pour is a term given to using multiple pours of resin, usually tinted to make a cast.

To do this, you have to work from the outside in.  You do the outside detail before you do the main body of the cast.

Im not to sure how to describe this process.  Each piece of the mold needs to hold part of the next piece of the mold it is attached to.  So the parts of the mold need to be interlocking.

This project was my first figure.  Chiron, who ironically has a Canadian history along with a base history of knowledge including medicine.
CHIRON
 
 
Double pours were able to be done in the standard smush molds use for this figure. Colored drops of red resin were dropped into the appropriate places in the mold using a pin.  The parts were then pressurized and allowed to cure.  Then the white resin was added to the mold cavities and everything was pressurized again.  This is the end result.  Below are the parts of the Interlocking 4 pc mold.  By  Interlocking, I mean the mold has both a male and a female alignment pin.
 

In the above picture, the red resin would be laid in the far left and right mold parts.  This will make the red cross.  In the center mold, the mold would be tipped so the red resin can be cured in the divots that will make the red dots in the saddle.  This took 2 applications.  One for each side.  After the red resin has been poured/cured, the white resin can then be poured. 

When doing the initial pour, you must be VERY careful to not overfill the cavity you are filling.
Conversely, once you have cured the initial pour, it is very critical you not flex the mold in any way that could lift these initial pours from the mold.  OTHERWISE...what happens is when you pour the bulk resin, it will get underneath the initial pour.  You will have to scrape away the 2nd pour to uncover the 1st pour.  Unfortunately at the time I didn't realize the importance of "FAIL" pictures. 



 
 
And finally...the finished saddle.  After the red was poured/pressurized/cured, the white resin was poured and processes were repeated. 
 
PLEASE...If I have been unclear in anyway or you feel I could make this easier to understand, please send me an email.  I read all mail and strive for user friendly instructions.  Your feedback is highly appreciated.
 
One last thing...when dealing in clear colors and double pouring, colors will change.  if you have a clear red over a blue, it wont look like it.  Double pours I would recommend limiting to solid colors.  But the best results are found during experimenting.  :-)
 

Thursday, November 24, 2016

AFTERNOON SHIFT DRAG

As you can probably tell, Im on afternoon shift this week.  Days next week.  So my posting is down.

I'll be posting more info soon(this weekend) starting up with Sprue Molds.

Sunday, November 20, 2016

4 Part Mold

I finally found all the original pictures of the 4 pc mold.  The post is in draft form as it requires a narrative that is taking me hours to word properly.

Expect any day now.

Friday, November 18, 2016

NEXT UP...SPRUE MOLDS

So that pretty much sums up Smush molds.  If you have questions please feel free to email me  golddober@gmail.com 

Im going to update the posts this weekend on the 4 Part Mold so they include pictures.  Back when I first did the post,  I thought people were only interested in the end result.  My bad.

Im working on the videos.  Man what ALOT of work.  Coming Soon!  Im also hoping to post a picture of Jade and Ronin in the coming few days.

Next Up...Sprue Molds

Thursday, November 17, 2016

Smush Mold Finished Casts/Figure

Now the magnets was just to give you ideas.

But I really meant it when I said I AM LAZY.  I'll spend time in other areas if the end result saves me time.  I could have simply cast the Dianaut Body in a hard plastic resin.  But I opted instead to make actual steel pins.  Why?  Seems like a lot more work...no?

Actually, just a few minutes.  The reasons I opted for steel pins is...

 A) As far as I know, no Garage Kit Caster has done these figures with steel pins, so its an identifier.  I can say hey...that's MY work.

B) It saves me work and therefore time.  These are incredibly small.  To try and trim the flashing on those little arm/leg pins is a nightmare.  You actually run the risk of clipping off the pin while trimming it.  With a steel pin, I don't have to worry about it and can run the knife blade along the pin without worry about cutting the pin off.  I can actually trim the flashing nicer and closer.  So it saves me time, saves me from potentially scrapping a part and most importantly...doesn't drive me crazy and get me mad because I have eliminated the point that was most likely to give me grief.  Its easier for me to make the pins than try and trim the pins.

I cast the legs with the original magnets in them.  I can trim away the foot to install the smaller magnets I bought until I can find better fitting magnrts or magnets I can cut into without affecting their field.

Here's the end result.
Cast Body with Steel Pins Inset

Dianaut Assembled Front View

Dianaut Assembled Side View
Now that I know the steel pins work, I need to make more so I can make a bunch of these.  The Yellow was done for visual purposes to contrast with the black.  Chrome paint will ring the chest bump.  Than can be sponged on.  And little magnets will be installed in the feet.