HOMEWORLD 3-3/4" FIGURE PRICE LIST

THE FOLLOWING IS A PRICE LIST FOR HOMEWORLDS 3-3/4" ACTION FIGURES.
EFFECTIVE SEPTEMBER 15/17.

PRICES REFLECT LACK OF ARTIST PACKAGING.
ARTIST PACKAGING IS NOW RESERVED FOR  EXCLUSIVE RELEASES.

PRICES REFLECT ENGINEERING/ASSEMBLING ADVANCEMENTS MADE SINCE PAST RELEASES.


COMMISSIONED RESIN FIGURES:  $149.99
FULL URETHANE COMMISSIONED FIGURES $ 249.00

COMMISSION FIGURES GET MADE FROM BRAND NEW MOLDS MADE SPECIFICALLY FOR THAT COMMISSION TO ENSURE MAXIMUM DETAIL AND ACCURACY. 
Urethane is much harder to work with and is harder on my fingers hence the price difference.

LISTED BELOW ARE PRICES FOR STOCK FIGURES.

ROBOIDS/DEIMOS...

ROBOID FULL COLOR RESIN CAST:  $74.99 Not Carded
DEIMOS RESIN FIGURE: $74.99 Not Carded
ROBOID/DEIMOS PAINTED: $59.99 Currently Unavailable
 
SULTAN/FLIGHT COMMANDER/OVERLORD/JADE/CRIMSON WARRIOR: 
Please note glider packs are no longer available.  It has been replaced with the traditional missile pack.  Figure Stands Not Included. 



Flight Commander  &  Sultan
Flight Packs No Longer Available

 

Missile Pack Replaces Glider Pack



Jade

Overlord
 

OVERLORD: $84.99 Carded ($79.99 not carded)
FULL COLOR RESIN CAST SULTAN/FLIGHT COMMANDER/JADE
& CRIMSON WARRIOR: $79.99 Not Carded
PAINTED: $64.99 Currently Unavailable
FULL URETHANE: $99.99
FULL URETHANE TINTED: $99.99

Some details are painted on each figure.  However a full painted figure is exactly that.  The entire figure is painted.

HOMEWORLD MAY PUT SPECIFIC FIGURES ON 'SALE' DURING A SALE.
PLEASE CHECK ORIGINAL SALE POSTING FOR ADDITIONAL/INDIVIDUAL FIGURE 'SALES' PRICES.

INTRODUCING...BUGGER!

I RECENTLY POSTED MY VERY FIRST CUSTOM FIGURE TO FACEBOOK.

BUGGER.  TO MY SURPRISE, HE WAS WELL RECIEVED TO THE POINT I WILL BE MAKING A FEW FOR SALE.  Some changes will be in effect for the final design.  Like no hardware and/or O rings.

HERE HE IS...BUGGER!

DIFFERENT RESINS FOR DIFFERENT USES

I use different resins for different purposes.  While yes, it is quite possible to make fully functional figures from one particular resin, here are some of the reasons why I use multiple resins.

I don't like painting.  So for parts where I use tinting or dyes, I use color accepting resins.  Resin color depends a lot on the resin you use,  For example, white resin requires a lot of dye to achieve the desired color because you have to 'overcome' the white.  If you use an insufficient amount of dye, you get a pastel color.  Pink instead of red.

Articulation for mating parts where practical.  This is actually quite important.  While it hasn't been an issue so far, it is best to use different resins for mating parts that articulate.  If the material of a peg is identical to the material surrounding the hole it goes into, the similarities of both could contribute to the peg essentially welding itself into the hole.  In industry, pins are never the same material for that exact reason.  One is usually softer metal to prevent this.  Its why Homeworld has recently changed to  urethane arm pins and a different resin for the torso.

Some resins have longer or shorter pot life.  I vary between each depending on how many molds or how intricate a mold is.  If Im pouring a lot, I use longer pot life resins.

Some resins are harder when cured than others.  But the harder they are, the more brittle they become. 

Some resins can handle higher heat temperatures than others like the black onyx.

And then there are resins that handle paint better than others.

Before you buy your resin, talk to your local retailer and discuss your project and needs with him to help you select the resin that is best for your project.

HOMEWORLDS FIGURES

A little bit on Homeworld's Figures.

Series 1

All of Homeworld's figures are hand made.  While I may have the Master 3D printed,  Homeworld does not 3D print any of its parts.  In fact, some of the masters needed were so small they could not be printed and had no choice but to be made by hand.

Molds are made.  Casts are made.  Casts are sanded and holes are drilled.  Parts are washed and assembled.  Light detail painting and then clear coated.

 

All molds and casts are pressurized to 55 PSI.  Casting requires a minimum of 30 PSI to be effective.

Homeworlds figures are heavier than printed figures the same size.  My cast parts do not float in water.  I use water to help check my parts.  If a cast part floats,  its garbage.  It means it has an air bubble in it.

Series 1 and Series 2 figures have slight differences.  Series 1 figures feature a matching glider pack.

  Series 2 figures feature a missile pack in place of the glider pack.  Glider Packs have been phased out and are no longer available.

Series 2 figures now feature clear urethane shoulder pins.  A feature that will be permanent for all future figures.

All figures carry Homeworld's 90 Day Guarantee and Lifetime Warranty*

I know of no other Indy Toy maker in the world who offers this kind of guarantee. 

Im committed to making the best figure I can.  One that you will be proud to both own and display.

WHAT DOES HOMEWORLD DO WITH EXTRA OR FAILED PARTS?

If they are tinted...I throw them out.  Especially red parts.  Red is the HARDEST color to match.  I have 3 little part bins.  ALL DIFFERENT SHADES OF RED or pink.   Red mismatch tints show up more than the rest it seems.  At least to me.  You make a batch...one part...just ONE cast fails...its ALL garbage.  I could try and match it up later...but that could take 3 or 4 or more attempts chasing a color for ONE part.  Im better off throwing them all out and trying a complete pour all over. Im just wasting the mold among other things.

I have a whole tray of mismatched color parts...and the colors cant be matched up to other colors because the tints are specific.  I could make a yellow and blue figure for instance, but the shade of blue doesn't look good with the particular shade of yellow. 

I had thought of having a cast sale.  25 cents a part or something stupid crazy like that...but unless you have a rivet squeezer or all the other specific parts, my extra cast parts are no good to you.

So yeah...I have been throwing out the extra colored parts.  Pure white, pure black and clear parts I do keep for later use because they always match up.

PRICES-Stock VS Commission

In case some of you are wondering...stock prices are cheaper than commission. 

By 'stock' price I mean what I have currently available.  Its already made.  You don't have to wait for me to make it.

Commission prices are more expensive because I make brand new molds for every commissioned figure.

Stock figures are limited to what I have available where as you can commission most anything you want.

Stock figures are usually available once a year.  Commissions are available at any time.

REPAIRING AIR BUBBLES

Myself, I would rather have one huge air bubble than a tiny one.  A big air bubble can be easily fixed or altered for a custom project.  Small holes mean a lot of work for little compensation.  In most cases its probably easier to throw the cast away and simply make another.  When dealing with tinted parts, its particularly problematic. 

But "IF" you can manage to match the tint or are dealing with a standard color resin, the best way that I have found to fix a air bubble hole in a cast is to build up a small wall around the hole with clay.  Then fill it up.  You peel away the clay and a little bit of light sanding and Viola.

Of course, if the bubble is in an extremely sensitive or high detail area, it might be best to just make a new one.

If the bubble is in an unobstructed part of a mold channel, then cut out te bad area, reseat in mold and finish filling the mold.  This method works great for making multiple color custom parts.

Im going to peel away the clay and sand everything back down.  The detail is simple so it wont even show when done.

Here is a photo of a failed HEAD cast.  I poured the resin in too fast.  This created an air bubble that prevented the mold from filling all the way.  Thinking it was full, I pressurized it.  I cut out the bad part, re-inserted the cast back into the mold and poured in more resin to complete the fill.  This can  be done with exact color match resins.  You wont even see a blend line unless you are using different colors like I did in the above picture.

EXTENDING POT LIFE TIP...Resin & Silicone

Pot life (refresher) is the term given for the allowable time to manipulate your resin.  It starts from the second you combine the 2 compounds.  Pot Life varies from resin to resin.  Please refer to your specific products for actual Pot Life times. 

15 seconds is a long time when referring to Pot Life.  And it still goes just as fast.  So you need to be organized and efficient.  No wasted movements. 

One way to gain yourself a bit of extra Pot Life time...

Smooth On products, the way the instructions are read, you might think to add "A" to "B".  But you don't have to.  It doesn't matter if A gets poured into B or the other way around.  And this can be applied to the silicone for making the molds as well.

POUR THE THINNER OF THE 2 COMPOUNDS INTO THE THICKER ONE.  You waste time trying to get every drop from the thicker compound into the mix.

And no...it doesn't matter if you stir clockwise or counter clockwise.  Just mix well.  Always.  That's where most of peoples problems happen.  Insufficient mixing due to panick over pot life and pouring everything before the resin/silicone starts to cure.  ever over extend yourself by trying to get too much done.  One bumped mold can throw your timing right out the window.