SMUSH MOLD TYPES Preferences Tips & Ideas

Honestly... have no idea what they call various types of Smush molds..  But I am making new molds for the next figures. In doing so, I needed to make 3 different beds for the 4 different heads I am making.

I would say enclosed (smush) molds (no sprues or venting) have 3 types of molds you can prep for.

1)  Imbedded.  That's where you take your piece and imbed it into the clay or whatever medium you use to make your mold bed.

2) Resting.  This is the easiest.  This is where you seat your piece directly on the clay or other medium.  Very light impression in the clay to hold it in place.

3) Elevated.  This is where you have built up your piece so that it is elevated above the bed.

Examples...

Imbedded.  Half the mold is imbedded into the clay bed.

Left: Elevated above bed.  Right: Resting on the bed.

Because we are using silicone, we don't have to subscribe to the half and half notion of molds.  We have flexibility.  So we can put our mold split line where ever we want.  We cant bend the mold to aid in the release of the cast.

The one thing I HIGHLY recommend..is when orienting your master...choose the orientation that will hold the master the best once the first half of the silicone cures.  This way, the master will stay in the silicone.  You don't want that master to come removed or loose in the silicone before pouring the second half of the mold.

Personally, I do not like imbedding parts into the clay for that reason.  It takes longer, but I prefer to build up and around the part being molded.  It makes it easier to remove the clay bed after. And DO NOT FORGET to check the master.  You want to brush it lightly to make sure no clay is sticking to it.  That will form to the mold.  Another reason why you want the master to be secure in the first half of the mold.

But for some items, imbedding is the perfect answer if you can remove the clay bed without disturbing the master.

HOMEWORLDS STAND AGAINST COVID

I myself have not contracted nor has anyone else in my house contracted nor been in contact with anyone known to have the COVID Virus.

That said...When I make action figures the casts are washed with a non abrasive anti bacterial liquid soap.  The parts are then assembled and AGAIN they are washed with a non abrasive liquid anti bacterial soap. 

At THAT point the figures are handled with One use powder free nitrile gloves only. 

They then get clear coated, allowed to dry, checked, tested and then packaged.  They get handled as little as possible and every time a fresh pair of gloves is used.

I cant save the whole world...but I can do what I can in my little corner.

Stay Safe, Stay Healthy from Homeworld and Family

5 mm Peg Evolution

I been quiet the last couple of days...nothing to worry about.  I have been ...experimenting.  In an effort to get 5mm interchangeability I have worked the 5 mm acrylic rod into other facets of the figures.  Now every peg including the pelvis will have 5 mm pegs.  From this point on. 

I have been doing back flips over this.  I cast the 5 mm rod into the pelvis.  Man this is the cats ass.  It doesn't really add a lot to the over all production time and if anything saves me the job of sanding plus it stays on size.

Past figures will still have the solid color pelvis since they are already done...but all figures made from this point on will have acrylic clear arm pins and acrylic  pegs.  The one exception to this will be the painted figures.  Painted figures will in no way have any consistency to 5 mm.  If it is it is if it isn't it is what it is.    Painted figures will be exactly that and will be offered later on at a lower price. 

I tried to figure out a way to make it a U-paint-it kit but the rivets needing setting make that a trifle hard if you don't have a squeezer.

Anyways...here's pics of what I have been doing back flips over all morning.  I just got the last clear urethane drop in and am now making the other parts of Roboid/Deimos.  I'll be putting figures together by Sunday.

The clear pegs will also help lighten up darker tinted clear torso's without affecting the color.  The pegs are notched and grooved to help make sure they stay in place and don't simply spin out.  I checked the upper peg.  Its in quiet tight.