I THOUGHT PHYSICS HAD LAWS???

I have a little hiccup that is costing me ALOT of time and extra resources.  It seems that while I was able to perfect some molds, others are opposing the laws of physics.  ALL the peg holes in the thighs and in the chest pieces have to be filled in and drilled back out manually.  The holes DID NOT shrink and in fact in 2 cases the holes got bigger.  WTF???  SO many variables I cant control.  Its another reason I have gone to using 5mm Acrylic rod wherever I can so I have some standard for 5mm interchangeability. 

So I have to waste a small amount of resin for a few drops to fill a hole.  You can only go so small on the amounts to be mixed.

 I am doing my best to make these figures as interchangeable as possible.  It seems like every time I put out a figure its just a hair better than the last one as better ways of doing things become apparent.  Every time I think...that's it...that's as good as I can make it...something else makes itself known that makes it worth my while to incorporate into the building process.

So where am I at this point???  At least 3 weeks away.  I have 15 figures left to fit and assemble and then they all have to be detailed.

This sure is doing wonders for my self discipline.  :-)

UNITRON

I have all the parts made top finish the last bunch of figures I am making as of today.  I had time to squeeze in 5 extra figures...a mini Microtron that I am renaming UNITRON.  I am also squeezing in 4 additional clear urethane figures...I will have over 50 figures available plus Micronauts and some Microman and Transformers and other assorted figures going cheap cheap cheap.   Im expecting to have everything ready for an event in early September.

IN MEMORY OF MY FATHER...

Sadly, my father has passed away due to cancer.  He was a good man with a slightly different sense of humor dedicated to his faith.

I wish to express my sincerest thanks to all of you for your condolences and support.  It's a tough aspect of life for all of us.  And it is the simplest of gestures from others that help us move forward.

Please accept my thanks from my entire family.

5 MM ROD ARRIVED

Wow...I guess I found a steady supplier for the 5mm rod.  They arrived today and EVERY rod was at size or plus 0.002"... That's really incredible.  That saves me ALOT of time. 

So September is looking good.  :-)

CLEAN LINES

There are many secrets to a good cast.  The most important one being...MIX WELL...but there are a few other things as well.   I use clay to make the beds for these molds.  One of the things that helps me make a good mold is straight clean lines around the Master.

I spent 3 hours making this simple mold.  I have a spot lit magnifying desk top lamp...I use my little pocketknife and trim up, pat down or otherwise trim the outside edge of the part being molded.

Yes its a bitch of a time...but here is where I will spare no expense.  I don't care how long it takes...because the time spent here ensures I have a flawless cast...its worth it or all your work goes to shit before you even get started.

Sorry about the pic, but you see how straight and clean it is.

The straighter and cleaner it is, the nicer the cast, the less sanding and ultimately, the less work one needs to do.  The suspension mold was needed to make this cast as this cast is my Master.  Now I can mold it however I want.

SMUSH MOLD TYPES Preferences Tips & Ideas

Honestly... have no idea what they call various types of Smush molds..  But I am making new molds for the next figures. In doing so, I needed to make 3 different beds for the 4 different heads I am making.

I would say enclosed (smush) molds (no sprues or venting) have 3 types of molds you can prep for.

1)  Imbedded.  That's where you take your piece and imbed it into the clay or whatever medium you use to make your mold bed.

2) Resting.  This is the easiest.  This is where you seat your piece directly on the clay or other medium.  Very light impression in the clay to hold it in place.

3) Elevated.  This is where you have built up your piece so that it is elevated above the bed.

Examples...

Imbedded.  Half the mold is imbedded into the clay bed.

Left: Elevated above bed.  Right: Resting on the bed.

Because we are using silicone, we don't have to subscribe to the half and half notion of molds.  We have flexibility.  So we can put our mold split line where ever we want.  We cant bend the mold to aid in the release of the cast.

The one thing I HIGHLY recommend..is when orienting your master...choose the orientation that will hold the master the best once the first half of the silicone cures.  This way, the master will stay in the silicone.  You don't want that master to come removed or loose in the silicone before pouring the second half of the mold.

Personally, I do not like imbedding parts into the clay for that reason.  It takes longer, but I prefer to build up and around the part being molded.  It makes it easier to remove the clay bed after. And DO NOT FORGET to check the master.  You want to brush it lightly to make sure no clay is sticking to it.  That will form to the mold.  Another reason why you want the master to be secure in the first half of the mold.

But for some items, imbedding is the perfect answer if you can remove the clay bed without disturbing the master.

HOMEWORLDS STAND AGAINST COVID

I myself have not contracted nor has anyone else in my house contracted nor been in contact with anyone known to have the COVID Virus.

That said...When I make action figures the casts are washed with a non abrasive anti bacterial liquid soap.  The parts are then assembled and AGAIN they are washed with a non abrasive liquid anti bacterial soap. 

At THAT point the figures are handled with One use powder free nitrile gloves only. 

They then get clear coated, allowed to dry, checked, tested and then packaged.  They get handled as little as possible and every time a fresh pair of gloves is used.

I cant save the whole world...but I can do what I can in my little corner.

Stay Safe, Stay Healthy from Homeworld and Family

5 mm Peg Evolution

I been quiet the last couple of days...nothing to worry about.  I have been ...experimenting.  In an effort to get 5mm interchangeability I have worked the 5 mm acrylic rod into other facets of the figures.  Now every peg including the pelvis will have 5 mm pegs.  From this point on. 

I have been doing back flips over this.  I cast the 5 mm rod into the pelvis.  Man this is the cats ass.  It doesn't really add a lot to the over all production time and if anything saves me the job of sanding plus it stays on size.

Past figures will still have the solid color pelvis since they are already done...but all figures made from this point on will have acrylic clear arm pins and acrylic  pegs.  The one exception to this will be the painted figures.  Painted figures will in no way have any consistency to 5 mm.  If it is it is if it isn't it is what it is.    Painted figures will be exactly that and will be offered later on at a lower price. 

I tried to figure out a way to make it a U-paint-it kit but the rivets needing setting make that a trifle hard if you don't have a squeezer.

Anyways...here's pics of what I have been doing back flips over all morning.  I just got the last clear urethane drop in and am now making the other parts of Roboid/Deimos.  I'll be putting figures together by Sunday.

The clear pegs will also help lighten up darker tinted clear torso's without affecting the color.  The pegs are notched and grooved to help make sure they stay in place and don't simply spin out.  I checked the upper peg.  Its in quiet tight.